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Anthony Riches reveals the pleasures and dangers that are in store for a visitor to the capital of the Roman empire
Rome. Even the name inspires awe. One million inhabitants, consuming nine million kilos of grain a year and a million cubic metres of water per day. It has more diversions than could ever be crammed into even the longest of visits – but don’t let that stop you trying! When to go When all roads lead to Rome, there’s no excuse for not coming to the civilised world’s premier city. While there’s no wrong time to visit the glory that is Rome, we recommend that you arrive in late spring, usually a pleasant 22 degrees, and before everyone that matters flees from the stifling heat to the seaside. The end of April is a very pleasant time to visit (more later), but the autumn is to be avoided. Rain, more rain, and plenty of it! What to take with you You’ll only need two things. Money – this isn’t a cheap city for the outsider – and bodyguards to make sure that you don’t lose it. Skilled local protection will be expensive, but both the number of tourist frauds and the danger of robbery with violence make this expense essential. Oh, and don’t forget to pack your toga. Formal dinner parties will demand that you look the part. You’ll need a full purse to make the most of the delights offered by this fabulous city. You can ‘do Rome’ on five sestertii a day, but with a bottle of decent Falernian easily costing that much, you’ll want at least 50 sestertii per night. To really make the most of the city you’ll need one gold aureus to spend per day, but don’t carry it all round with you! Visit a bank and deposit your wealth, only withdrawing enough to fund your activities every day or two. And don’t trust any of the people around you with your money – including your local bodyguards! Where to stay First set your daily budget, then look for an appropriate hostelry. As ever, the more you pay the more convivial atmosphere you can expect. On a budget, look for a caupona (a restaurant with rooms) but be ready for a lively time. Your host will be doing whatever he – or she – has to in order to scrape a living from the clientele. We recommend paying enough that your brushes with prostitution, and quite possibly the city police, are a matter of informed choice, rather than where you lodge. Stabulae, or coaching inns, usually found just outside of the city walls, will provide a less risky option, and can stable your horse if you have one. At the refined end of the market we happily recommend one of the gorgeous hospitia, private houses converted to play host to the well heeled. If you’re missing your atrium or that nice walled garden back home, your hospitium will more than compensate. Sights and activities The most inventive diversions of the empire are gathered here, with something for every taste and budget. Our choice? Go for a bath! Nine hundred bath houses offer many and varied services, but be sure to visit the city’s major thermae. Choose the sprawling baths of Trajan to watch Romans at play, or for that more exclusive experience we recommend the upmarket baths of Sura on the Aventine. Whichever you choose, relax! Hire a boy to oil your body and then scrape away the city’s dirt; eat, drink, gamble, read, listen to poetry or just enjoy a ‘spiritual’ massage by skilled eastern practitioners. Entry is a snip at one-sixteenth of a sestertius, but you’ll spend a lot more once you’re inside. And take that bodyguard in as your towel carrier – thieves and pickpockets abound. What about the circus? Go for the biggest and best, and head straight to the Colosseum, just to the east of the main forum. Gladiators and wild animal hunts, mock battles, executions and dramas, it has everything. You may even get to see the emperor Commodus earn the crowd’s adulation by performing as a gladiator! Spiritual needs can be met by numerous temples happy to take your money, and more earthly requirements by innumerable brothels. Prostitutes are also to be found at the baths, the circus, in taverns, bakeries, cook houses, inns, even at funerals – so just about anywhere, and cater to all pockets and predilections. Just keep a close eye on your purse. Afterwards you can expect to need another bath, if only to wash away the soot that cascades from their lamps. Come in late April for the festival of Floralia, when the city’s female entertainers have their moment in the sun and certainly make the most of it! Emergencies Be warned: if you get into trouble you won’t find much sympathy here. Romans are by necessity robust survivors, and they’ll expect the same from you. Fail to heed these cautionary words and your visit will be nothing if not exciting. Enjoy your stay! Anthony Riches is a historical novelist, author of the bestselling Empire series. Rome today The glory of ancient Rome still packs them in today, as anyone who's queued for the Colosseum in the height of summer will tell you. However, the imperial city is only part of the story for the millions who come each year. Layer upon layer of history has created a huge and chaotic urban museum, centred around the brooding statue of philosopher Giordano Bruno in the Campo dei Fiori. In the centuries after 192 AD Rome became the home of the Latin church, and it is to St Peter's and the Vatican that many pilgrims come, whether to worship or rubber-neck at the Renaissance and Baroque treasures within. Rome today, however, remains as it has been for millennia, all about the Romans: noisy, outgoing, stylish and unable to comprehend why you’d dream of living anywhere else. Spend a day in their shoes, sipping espresso, zipping through dense traffic on scooters and staying out late on sweltering evenings and you’ll find it hard to leave, too. Watch out for the tip-hungry Centurions who prowl the crowds posing for photos, by the way. This article was first published in the August 2011 issue of BBC History Magazine
In the latest instalment of our historical holidays series, in which experts imagine they're writing a travel guide in the past, Julian Humphrys explores an Atlantic island under British rule that isn't quite the tropical paradise you'd expect...
This article was first published in the June 2014 issue of BBC History Magazine Few choose to holiday on Gorée. But if you do find yourself on an overnight stay, be on your guard: drunken, unruly soldiers, disease-carrying bugs and a violent governor all await you. Abolitionists be warned: the impact of the slave trade is impossible to avoid. When to go Atlantic breezes keep the temperature on Gorée bearable throughout the year; by west African standards, it’s a relatively healthy place. You may have little choice in timing your visit – chances are that it will only be a necessary stopover on a voyage to somewhere else – but if possible avoid the rainy season, from July to October, when the bad, damp air can foster deadly outbreaks of malaria and yellow fever. Dangers and annoyances Like most of west Africa, Gorée is plagued by an assortment of insects whose sole purpose in life seems to be to drink as much of your blood as possible. The wise traveller always brings some kind of protective net – thin cheesecloth works well – to keep bugs at bay. If you like to read, be on the alert for termites: they’ll make short work of any books left on the ground. But hazards on Gorée aren’t confined to the insect variety. Be wary of the soldiers of the British garrison – most are unruly servicemen or criminals here only because they were offered the option of serving in Africa as an alternative to a flogging, or worse. If you hear that it’s pay day, stay indoors – the streets will be crammed with drunken soldiers, all on the lookout for trouble. Colonel Wall, the governor, isn’t much better. A tall, foul-mouthed Irishman, he rules the island with a rod of iron. Don’t get on his wrong side: dark rumours are already circulating in England about his violent temper and scant regard for legal niceties in dealings with soldiers and civilians alike. Eating and drinking Expect to dine on rice shipped over from the mainland, as well as an amazing variety of fish caught by the locals from their pirogues – boats made from hollowed-out tree trunks. Judging by the deplorable state in which the garrison troops can often be found, alcohol is never in short supply. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said for water. The island has only two tiny springs, so most drinking water has been collected during the rainy season and stored in cisterns for use in drier periods. Accommodation Accommodation on Gorée leaves a lot to be desired. Though a few comfortable two-storey stone houses are now being built on the island, you’ll probably end up sleeping in a straw hut. Sights and activities Gorée owes its importance to the sheltered anchorage at the north end of the island – indeed, its name is derived from the Dutch for ‘good harbour’. In 1779, Britain regained control of Gorée, which offered a superb base from which to dominate trade along this stretch of African coast. Much of this commerce is based around slavery; during your time on Gorée you may well see shackled groups of enslaved Africans being forced on board the ships that will transport them to a life of cruel servitude in the New World. However, many enslaved Africans on Gorée are not sent overseas. Instead, they are kept on the island as domestic servants and labourers for the merchant community, many of whom are signares – mixed-race women who make the most of their links with both African and European communities. Look out for baskets of gum arabic being loaded onto ships. Used in cooking, printing and the preparation of paint and cloth, it’s probably Gorée’s most important export. Other trade goods include hides, ivory, cloth and huge bundles of ostrich feathers for London’s milliners. Entertainment What social life there is on Gorée is dominated by the signares. You’ll probably see them promenading around the island in their colourful robes. Try to get yourself invited to one of the balls occasionally thrown in their newly built houses – lively, vibrant events that are very different to the staid affairs you’ve encountered at home. Getting around The island is less than two-thirds of a mile long and one-third wide, so you can walk round most of it in no time. The climb up to St Michael’s Fort, on the rocky hill at the south end of the island, is rather taxing but rewarded with wonderful views. Pay a local fisherman to take you over to the two Madeleine Islands, three miles west of Gorée. The larger island is famous for its baobab trees, many bearing the names of European visitors carved into their thick trunks; some date back to the 15th or 16th centuries. Julian Humphrys is development officer for The Battlefields Trust Gorée today Gorée today is laid-back and languid, car-free and calm – a contrast to its tragic past, though modern visitors learn that comparatively few slaves were shipped from here. No matter: this symbol of a brutal phase of colonial history is somewhere to come and think, and to learn about the Atlantic slave trade. The only disturbance comes from enthusiastic touts and would-be guides eager to make some money from the day-trippers who arrive on regular ferries from mainland Senegal. It’s easy to explore the island independently; don’t miss the Maison des Esclaves (House of Slaves), with its ‘doorway to nowhere’ opening directly to the sea. Also of interest are the historical museum and the Castel (the old St Michael’s Fort). From here, visitors can look across to the city of Dakar, departure point for boats to the island, which is as lively, colourful and of-the-moment as Gorée is lost in time. The Senegalese capital makes a thrilling introduction to west Africa. For another African island with history, aim for Zanzibar, a flight or ferry ride from Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. For a fast-growing city with an interesting colonial history, try Shanghai, China. Tom Hall, travel editor, lonelyplanet.com. You can read more of his articles at the website
In the latest instalment of our historical holidays series, in which experts imagine they're writing a travel guide in the past, Brendan Sainsbury proposes a visit to a mighty port city groaning with the riches of New World exploitation
This article was first published in the May 2014 issue of BBC History Magazine Rich with the spoils of Spain’s American empire, Seville is one of the most cosmopolitan cities in Europe. But wealth is unequally distributed, the once-great river port is silting up, and thieves, floods and public executions can turn the streets into dangerous obstacle courses. When to go The best time to visit is when a transatlantic fleet is in port. The weighty Veracruz and Cartagena convoys meet up in Havana and normally arrive in Seville in early September, although larger vessels are increasingly docking in the deeper waters of Cádiz. Heaving with exotic cargo from the New World, the ships pull into Seville’s Arenal quarter where the whole city gathers to celebrate. Expect music, commerce, gossip, festivities and a diverse multitude of people. It is a truly incredible spectacle. What to Take With You A wide-brimmed hat is essential to mitigate the debilitating effects of the strong Spanish sun. Gentlemen are also advised to pack a good pair of stout boots. Although Seville experiences very little rainfall, the Guadalquivir river regularly bursts its banks, an event that turns the streets into muddy and barely navigable quagmires. Costs and Money Spain’s finances are weak, and wild fluctuations in food prices can be triggered by natural disasters such as flooding. Many locals rely on charitable handouts. The Spanish currency is the much-sought-after escudo. Gold escudo coins come in several denominations and are used only by the wealthy. The wider populace uses silver reales. Sights and Activities Any visit should start in Seville Cathedral, a magnificent Gothic structure originally conceived in 1401 but still busy with sculptors, architects and artists adding embellishments to its ornate interior. Unless you’re a visiting Habsburg, it’s unlikely you’ll be invited inside the Alcázar (royal palace) where the boy king, Carlos II, often lodges, but you can admire its unusual Mudéjar architecture from the outside. The golden age of Sevillan art shows no sign of abating. The mantle of the late master Velázquez has passed to another Sevillano artist, Bartolomé Murillo. Señor Murillo has been busy since the 1650s, opening an art academy to nurture new talent, and working on a brilliant canvas of Saint Anthony inside Seville Cathedral. With luck you may get to admire his latest project, a series of six paintings on the subject of ‘Mercy’, in the recently inaugurated Iglesia de la Caridad. Dangers and Annoyances The gulf between rich and poor is huge. The back streets, particularly around the port, teem with vagabonds, thieves and rogues known as pícaros. Refrain from commenting on matters of religion. The Inquisition Court, based since 1481 in Seville’s Castillo de San Jorge, is not known for its religious tolerance; autos-da-fé (public penances) are sometimes meted out. Avoid public executions, especially burnings at the stake, when an unpleasant mob mentality takes over. Prepare to flee the city should you hear any reports of infectious disease. The last plague to hit Seville, in 1649, wiped out a large proportion of the city’s population – an estimated 60,000 citizens. Entertainment Seville’s Roma inhabit the rambunctious Triana quarter on the less-desirable side of the Guadalquivir. Their esoteric folk music involves much yodelling, foot-stamping and clapping of hands. The curious and brave can cross the city’s wobbly pontoon bridge to seek it out. Drinking The fine local wine is much sought after, especially by the British who refer to it as ‘sherris sack’. Rumour has it that Francis Drake made off with several thousand barrels of the stuff when he ‘singed the King of Spain’s beard’ at Cádiz in 1587. Seville’s newest bar, El Rinconcillo, opened earlier this year and is causing quite a stir. Inside, one can barely move for the crowds. Regulars are confident it has staying power. Eating Strange foodstuffs are offloaded quayside from ships freshly arrived from the New World. Visitors are advised to view them with suspicion. The small red fruit that the Spanish call a tomate is sometimes eaten in restaurants, but is more commonly used as a table decoration. So-called chilli peppers are best left to monks, who grow them in their monasteries as scientific curiosities. Safer for European palates are excellent local dry-cured hams and fresh seafood. Getting Around Hire a horse. Andalusian horses are, without question, the noblest and most elegant mounts in the world. Brendan Sainsbury has written Lonely Planet country guides to Cuba, Italy, Spain, the US, Peru and Mexico Seville today Though no longer wealthy in colonial spoils, Seville remains one of the world’s great treasures. The Andalusian capital is bathed in sunshine and rich in historical highlights. Two of the city’s stand-outs – the cathedral and mighty Alcázar – are, if anything, even more impressive than they were in 1670 when they towered over the city; they’re especially eye-catching at night, when they are illuminated. In the summer, the great palace hosts nocturnal concerts. But you can still be entranced by Seville having seen neither of these places. Simply walk the streets of the medieval judería (Jewish quarter), today the Barrio de Santa Cruz, and take in the atmosphere of the tiny lanes and flower-strewn plazas. Seville also has a lovely waterfront, busy shopping centre and, of course, the parades and parties of Semana Santa (Holy Week). The stalls and socialising of the Feria de Abril make that another excellent time to be in town. You could do as locals did in 1670 and flock to El Riconcillo, then the newest bar in town, today the oldest – but still as much fun. For another Andalusian gem, head to the old city of Cádiz, thought to be the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in Europe. Tom Hall, travel editor, lonelyplanet.com. You can read more of his articles at the website
In the latest instalment of our historical holidays series, in which experts imagine they're writing a travel guide in the past, Dan Cossins invites visitors to Savannah, where abolitionist stirrings are threatening the city's serene veneer...
This article was first published in the April 2014 issue of BBC History Magazine Home to leafy plazas, stately mansions and a craze for chilled champagne, Savannah is a delightful place to visit. But abolitionists take note: this is a city built on the dark trade of slave labour... When to go Savannah enjoys a semitropical climate. Winters are mild, perfect for the busy social season, while summers are oppressively humid, particularly July and August when wealthy citizens escape to the mountains or New England. The best time to visit is spring, when it’s warm and the air is filled with the scents of magnolia and jasmine. Costs and money It’s US dollars here, but the currency can be confusing. Local and state banks print their own paper money, and even small businesses produce their own small denomination notes and coins. A good rule of thumb is to accept only currency issued by local banks or businesses, as locals will likely accept them. Counterfeiting is commonplace, so keep your wits about you. Dangers and annoyances Summer brings mosquitoes from the surrounding swamplands and tiny biting bugs called ‘no-see-ums’. As for safety, you’ll be fine in central areas. However, be sure to tread carefully in the rough, ramshackle wards on the eastern and western fringes, where sailors and labourers – whites, free blacks and ‘hired-out’ slaves alike – drink, brawl and whore. Even here, though, the streets are gas-lit and patrolled by night watchmen. These days, so-called ‘vigilance committees’ weed out anti-slavery troublemakers. Indeed, it is best to keep any abolitionist sentiments you may hold to yourself: locals recently tarred and feathered a visitor from Massachusetts for making his feelings known on this divisive issue. Sights and activities Visitors can’t fail to be charmed by Savannah’s 24 garden squares, shaded by magnificent, sprawling oak trees draped in Spanish moss, which hangs from branches like so many fraying white-grey scarves. These leafy plazas, connected by an orderly grid of sandy streets and lined with grand mansions, are surely the most picturesque and tranquil in the US. Lately, however, they have played host to a rising chorus of anger over the conspiracies of northern abolitionists. Such deep-seated fears are exacerbated by John Brown’s recent ill-fated attempt to incite an armed slave revolt in Virginia. To understand the city’s commercial boom, head down to bustling Bay Street and the docks, where the Savannah river is cluttered with ships, and wharves teem with stevedores (dockworkers) loading and unloading cargo. Carts piled high with lumber, rice and bundles of snow-white cotton clatter along, as clerks and draysmen shout to be heard over the steam-powered cotton presses and sawmills that roar day and night. Ethical travellers should bear in mind, however, that the whole spectacle – not to mention the great wealth it generates – relies on the brutal enslavement of thousands of Africans, who are regularly flogged bloody in the field. If you have the stomach, go see for yourself at one of the vast plantations that are a short carriage ride from the city. For a more pleasant diversion, hire a boat and paddle out to Jekyll Island, where sandy beaches provide an idyllic swimming spot for those in the know. Sleeping and accommodation Get your head down at more than half a dozen well-reputed hotels, not least Pulaski House and City Hotel – the latter boasting a lively bar and a grand staircase complete with ornate mahogany banisters. Expect to pay around $10 a week for board and lodging. For the less well-heeled, the city boasts scores of basic boarding houses. Eating and drinking Saloons serve stiff drinks and solid meals. In the more salubrious hotels, you might sample green turtle stew cooked with spices, Madeira and claret. These days, the city boasts two icehouses, and chilled champagne is all the rage. If you’re self-catering, pick up groceries at City Market, where white butchers rub shoulders with slave women, who chew sugarcane as they tend seafood and vegetable stalls for their masters. Entertainment The recently renovated Savannah Theatre on Chippewa Square accommodates 1,200 for plays, musicals and occasional lectures. You might just as well find merriment on the streets, however, where fiddlers, clairvoyants and jugglers wander. And on parade days, of which there are many, the city swarms with spectators gathered to watch various splendidly uniformed militia groups march to the beat of their own bands. The annual Coloured Fire Companies Parade is intriguing: free black men sing loud and proud as they march with their engines, before competing to see whose hose can throw the longest jet of water. After such an uplifting display, the grim procession of shackled slaves shuffling from holding pens to auction house is a sobering sight indeed. Getting around Savannah’s network of shady avenues is a haven for walkers. Watch where you step, though, for the streets are strewn with excrement from the dogs, cows, pigs and horses that share them. If and when you tire, horse-drawn carriages are available for hire. Savannah today With its beautiful colonial architecture and canopy of oak trees, Savannah is one of the crown jewels of the Old South. In recent decades, however, this sleepy beauty has revived herself into a vibrant city full of art-school kids from across the US and beyond. The historic district is home to elegant 19th-century buildings, not to mention Forsyth Park, which occupies 30 acres and dates to the 1840s. The Savannah History Museum, housed in the restored Central of Georgia Railway train shed, provides an overview of the city’s story. But nothing beats exploring it first-hand, admiring the antebellum houses built for wealthy cotton merchants – such as the Owens-Thomas House. On the waterfront, River Street is cobbled with ballast from the ships that once docked there and is overlooked by five-storey cotton warehouses. It’s now a touristy stretch lined with cafes, souvenir shops, seafood joints, and bars, but still worth a look. Just beyond the city is the Wormsloe Historic Site, where the ruins of an 18th-century colonial estate are open to the public. If antebellum architecture and a glimpse of the Old South is what you are looking for, visit Charleston, South Carolina, or the rowdier New Orleans, Louisiana. Dan Cossins is a freelance journalist who lives in Philadelphia
In the latest instalment of our historical holidays series, in which experts imagine they're writing a travel guide in the past, Russell Shorto recommends a city that, with the threat of invasion lifted, has become the emporium of the world
This article was first published in the March 2014 issue of BBC History Magazine After centuries as a pokey little place famous only as a centre of pilgrimage, Amsterdam has morphed into the global hub of art, commerce and science. And what better way of navigating the city than on its staggeringly efficient waterways. When to go Any time is good, though high summer is the malaria season along the canals. The tulips for which the city is famous – even after the tulip mania of a decade ago, when the price of bulbs soared and then collapsed – still pop up in the spring. In winter you can skate on the canals. What to take with you Layers! The northern winds blow strong here. Look at the locals: they aren’t all fat, just protecting themselves from the elements. If you want to fit in, bring a crisp, white lace collar. Costs This is the world’s greatest city right now, but that doesn’t mean it’s the most expensive. The Dutch are great ones for bargains. Haggle with merchants, and you’ll be respected. Amsterdam is the emporium of the world. Along its canals you can buy live elephants, stuffed monkeys, Delft tiles and spices from the East Indies. Everything is cheaper here than elsewhere in Europe, because most goods arrive here first before being shipped elsewhere. Sights and activities Leaders from other European cities come to marvel at the new canal zone, which is about three-quarters finished now. Nearly four decades ago the city fathers laid out a massive urban expansion programme, which involved wrapping a horseshoe ring of canals around the medieval city centre, increasing the size of the city fivefold. Thousands of gable-topped brick houses, miles of road and canal, and dozens of humpbacked bridges later, the result is a place unlike any other. For the first time, a city has been crafted around the needs and comforts of individual residents. The homes themselves are a reflection of this. Think of homes in other European cities. Who lives in them? An extended family, its servants, renters, assorted others. An Amsterdam canal house is smaller, and it is meant to house a man, his wife and their children. What a concept! The city has brought about a new emphasis on this family unit, and so has redefined the meaning of ‘home’. With that comes a new approach to comfort. The Dutch have a word – gezellig – that doesn’t have an English translation. It means something like cosy, comfortable, warm. Go inside a canal house and you’ll find lots of gezelligheid. There are cosy beds tucked into closets, to keep out drafts. The family gathers around the fireplace. You’ll see that everyone hangs paintings on their walls. And the paintings will amaze you – for they are not religious subjects. Instead – you won’t believe this – they depict ordinary people. A woman pouring milk into a bowl. An old man selling fish on the street. Imagine making art out of such commonplace material! Yet this is the key to Amsterdam: it’s geared to the individual. One stop you must make, therefore, is at one of the city’s art dealers. Why not see the great man himself: Rembrandt van Rijn? He’s not only one of Europe’s most celebrated artists (his Night Watch painting of the civic guard company on patrol hangs in their headquarters a few steps from his house), but a dealer in his own right. Dangers and annoyances As of the Treaty of Munster, which was signed this year, the threat of a Spanish invasion, which has loomed over the city for 80 years, is over. The Dutch have won their long war of independence. That doesn’t mean you don’t have to watch yourself along the canals. But the threat will be from pickpockets, who prey on the thousands of newcomers hoping to make a go of it in the city where, 40-odd years ago, the stock market and the concept of ‘shares of stock’ were born. Sleeping and accommodation Most inns are clustered near the harbour. You get off your ship and cross into the city via the New Bridge. In front of you is a canal called the Damrak. It’s lined with cheap places to stay. For something finer, go straight ahead until you come to the Stock Exchange Building. Around it are accommodations for the merchants and traders who flock to Amsterdam. Eating and drinking In two words: herring and beer. You can’t go wrong with either. Beyond that, the national dish is hutspot, a stew of vegetables, meat, ginger and lemon juice. And in winter, pea soup is the thing. For quick bites as you stroll, you can find street stalls hawking cinnamon cakes. Getting around If you’re coming to Amsterdam from another Dutch city you’ll be astounded by the public transport boats. They are clean. They ride the waterways that connect cities. They usually depart hourly, and are efficient. You can walk anywhere in the city in 15 minutes. If you’re rich and want to flaunt it, you can hire a coach, and laugh as commoners dash to the sides of the narrow roads to avoid being run down. Russell Shorto is the author of Amsterdam: A History of the World’s Most Liberal City (Little, Brown) Amsterdam today Canals, characterful small houses and art like Rembrandt’s Night Watch remain a powerful draw to the Dutch capital – just as they were in 1648. Though today two-wheeled transport has replaced boats as the most popular way of getting around, the water remains the best way to appreciate the canal ring, now an ancient treasure admired the world over. You can enjoy art all over the city, including the Van Gogh Museum and, most stunning of all, Rijksmuseum, newly opened after a decade-long restoration. Anne Frank’s House does more than nod at the recent history of the city. Most of all, Amsterdam is a thoroughly modern European metropolis which preserves its past while advancing confidently into the future. For all that, brown cafes offering gezelligheid by the glass still abound. As an added bonus, Amsterdam is brilliantly connected with airports all over the UK. There’s little excuse not to go and see it for yourself. If you like your canals Dutch, try Leiden, a short train ride from Amsterdam. Another cycle-friendly European capital with a fascinating history is Copenhagen, Denmark. Tom Hall, travel editor, lonelyplanet.com. You can read more of his articles at the website
In the latest instalment of our historical holidays series, in which experts imagine they're writing a travel guide in the past, Diana Bretherick invites visitors to enjoy a beacon of culture, but one with a dark reputation as a centre of black magic
This article was first published in the January 2014 issue of BBC History Magazine If the legends are true, the devil lurks around every corner in this, the birthplace of Italian unification. But travellers fear not, for alongside its cultural delights, the city boasts a Christian relic that continues to amaze and perplex: the Shroud of Turin, which many believe wrapped the body of Christ When to go Being so far north, Turin does not have a Mediterranean climate. Instead it has hot summers and during autumn and winter it is rather damp and notable for its fog. Turin’s famous criminologist Professor Cesare Lombroso is of the view that hot weather tends to encourage violent crime. With this in mind it might be best to avoid the summer months altogether. September would probably be a safer bet. What to take with you A stout cane and a good pair of comfortable walking shoes are essential in this city. Because of the damp climate there are countless covered walkways lined with shops and cafes, a feature that makes walking through the city a pleasure. It might also be advisable to take with you a talisman warding off evil spirits and demons, as the city is alleged to be a centre for Satanism and black magic. Costs and money It would be better to deal in cash only. There has just been an economic collapse after a construction boom. Property prices are beginning to plummet and, as a result, banking is considered by most Torinese to be rather precarious. Prices in Turin are high so make sure that you have with you plenty of lire, the local currency. Sights and activities There is plenty to see and do in Turin, particularly if you are interested in art and history. The Galleria Sabauda houses an impressive art collection. In the same building you can find the Museo Egizio – the largest and most prized collection of Egyptian artefacts to be found outside of Egypt itself. A visit to Cesare Lombroso’s Museum of Criminal Anthropology is a must. You will need permission from the man himself as it is not open to the public. But as Lombroso is an inveterate show-off, access will no doubt be granted, most probably with a guided tour thrown in to boot. Here you will find all manner of criminal curiosities – from skulls and death masks taken from convicted offenders, to works of art made by prisoners from Italian jails. For music lovers the Teatro Carignano is a Torinese favourite, and has seen performances by luminaries such as Paganini and Toscanini, among others. The city’s 15th-century cathedral holds a shroud many believe once wrapped the body of Christ. You’ll be lucky to catch a glimpse of it, though: the last time the shroud was on public display was the marriage of King Humbert I in 1868. Dangers and annoyances Pickpockets and muggers are a problem in Turin, as in any city. But, thanks to Lombroso’s work, we can now identify criminals from their physical characteristics and therefore avoid them altogether. If you encounter a man with jug ears, thick hair, a thin beard and a protruding chin, you may wish to cross to the other side of the street. Do be mindful of the city’s devilish reputation. Decline any invitations to small, late evening gatherings in the vicinity of the Piazza Statuto. This is supposedly the location of the gates of Hell. Sleeping and accommodation The city still has some fine hotels, but some have closed since the honour of being the new Italy’s capital was lost to Florence in 1864 (an honour that went on to Rome in 1871). The subsequent departure of the political elite, a fall in the population and an unstable economy have not helped make Turin a tourist destination, even though it has so much to offer. Eating and drinking In many of the hotel restaurants the French influence is still apparent. However if you take time to seek out some of the local trattorias you will find some excellent cuisine at a reasonable price. Try grissini – crisp breadsticks – that were invented here, or hearty dishes such as risotto from locally grown rice, or finanziera – a fragrant stew made of chicken offal. Establishments such as Caffé Norman or Caffé San Carlo cater for those with a lighter appetite and an eye for extravagant decor. Small tasty snacks known as stuzzichini are served, as a matter of course, with any drinks ordered. Also recommended is Al Bicerin, a small establishment in the Piazza della Consolata which serves a local speciality of the same name, an unmissable mix of coffee, chocolate and cream. Emergencies Turin has two law enforcement agencies, the Carabinieri and the Public Security Police. It is not unusual for both to turn up at the scene of a crime and squabble over who is in charge. It might be easier to solve the crime yourself. Diana Bretherick is author of City of Devils, a crime novel set in 19th-century Turin (Orion, 2013) Turin today Damp, dark and dangerous: Diana Bretherick’s Turin is, in many ways, a world away from the elegant and cosmopolitan modern city of today. While the Mole Antonelliana, a towering aluminium spike that graces the Italian two-cent coin, appeals most to landmark-hunting locals, the Museo Egizio is still the finest Egyptian museum outside Cairo. Turin’s biggest draw remains hidden from view: the Shroud of Turin. The real thing is displayed on rare occasions, but the Museo della Sindone tells the story of its ongoing mystery. Turin is almost as well known as the home of resurgent Fiat cars, and the equally bouncing-back Juventus football team. With such gripping present-day attractions it’s easy to overlook the fascinating history of the city itself and its role, particularly, in the unification of Italy, so a stop at the Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano is rightly considered essential for all visitors. If you like your Italian cities packed with monuments then aim for Milan, a hop along the railway line from Turin. For another great ‘city plus mountains’ combination try Santiago, Chile. Tom Hall, travel editor, lonelyplanet.com. You can read more of his articles at the website
In the latest instalment of our historical holidays series, in which experts imagine they're writing a travel guide in the past, Simon Winder invites visitors to Prague, a city striving to combat the impact of war
This article was first published in the Christmas 2013 issue of BBC History Magazine All roads lead to Prague – mostly because its most famous resident, Rudolf II, is Holy Roman Emperor, king of Bohemia and Hungary, and ruler of countless other places in Europe. The city has much to dazzle, but unsuspecting tourists beware: danger lurks around every corner When to go While the city is in some ways more pleasant in the summer it is also then more prone to devastating outbreaks of fatal sickness, which can be an inconvenience for tourists. In the winter months it is bitterly cold and has been getting progressively colder as the Little Ice Age bites. The resulting poor harvests, combined with the devastation of agricultural land to the east by Tartar raiders, makes the winter supply of food expensive and scarce, so looking after frivolous foreign visitors is a low priority for the authorities. What to take with you Food can be scarce so bring your own supplies. Visitors to Prague are permitted to carry a sword and dagger and these will certainly come in handy. Actual fighting in the town is rare, but a tourist with a bag of coins on their belt, who is cluelessly gawping at the sites in the Old Town and who lacks this visible deterrent, will be a sitting duck for the innumerable petty thieves who infest the city. Costs and money As the royal and imperial capital under the eccentric, neglectful rule of Rudolf II, Prague is ruinously expensive, with all available rooms crammed with ambassadors, noble entourages, contractors and mercenaries. The huge numbers of alchemists, painters, architects, decorators, jewellers and zoo-keepers employed by Rudolf also don’t help the overcrowding situation. Paying for even basic accommodation could see you run through your ducats at an alarming speed. Sights and activities Be sure to stop and admire the beautiful Prague Bridge, built more than two centuries ago. With its massive fortifications at either end, it controls all crossings of the Vltava river as well as movement between the castle and the Old Town. Some parts of Prague Castle, which is constantly being remodelled and extended, are open to the public, not least the extraordinary indoor shopping centre of Vladislav Hall. Built for the king of Bohemia a century ago, it is often used for banquets, although for much of the time it is filled with stalls selling religious items, books, prints and jewellery. Prague is famous for its utraquist churches, home to a national Bohemian religion which stems from the Hussite Wars (1419–c34), a bitter religious struggle between followers of the Roman Catholic church and those of Bohemian reformer Jan Hus. These churches allow the laity to receive both bread and wine during the Eucharist, as well as the clergy. The front of the Týn Church in Old Town is decorated with a huge gold Hussite chalice symbol and a statue of George, the Hussite king of Bohemia. The Bethlehem Chapel, where Bohemian reformer Jan Hus once preached, keeps up the city’s great preaching tradition. With special permission it should be possible to see some of the emperor’s curio collections, which are among the most exotic and extensive in Europe. They include everything from precious stones and paintings by the artist Arcimboldo to some rhino bones sold to Rudolf by King Philip II of Spain. Most striking are the emperor’s animals, which at different times have included a dodo, a cassowary, a pangolin and several cheetahs, with which he likes to hunt deer in the Bohemian forests. Dangers and annoyances War against the Ottoman empire and its allies has been grinding on for over six years now. New groups of troops from all over the Holy Roman Empire are on their way to fight, while wounded, penniless, disease-ridden and desperate soldiers returning from the front make the city of Prague an often dangerous and unstable place. Avoid wandering the dark, labyrinthine corridors of the castle: Rudolf allows a lion and a tiger to roam at will, and staff members are known to have been eaten. Eating and drinking The total destruction of Antwerp by Spanish troops and continued fighting in the Low Countries has drastically damaged European trade, so the flow of delicious East Indian spices that had so improved Prague’s menus has been disturbed, bringing the choice back to the usual, near flavourless, beef and chicken. Supplies of mutton from Hungary have been disrupted by rebellion and by Ottoman armies – no great loss as the mutton tastes roughly the same as the beef and the chicken. Getting around Behind its defensive walls Prague is a crowded city and both pedestrians and horsemen struggle through its narrow streets. With rain reducing many thoroughfares to filthy morasses it is a good idea to wear high boots – with the added bonus that these are now intensely fashionable. Prague today The geography of Prague is remarkably similar to that of 400 years ago. The Prague Bridge (now called the Charles Bridge) with its defensive towers is still one of the city’s biggest attractions. The castle, too, remains an important monument, although it has undergone many architectural and stylistic changes since it was founded in around AD 880. The Prague Castle Picture Gallery features works by Titian, Aachen and Rubens, and, happily, visitors can now wander the castle grounds without fear of tiger attacks. Even the Vladislav Hall is relatively unchanged, and still hosts banquets of a kind that would have been entirely recognisable to Rudolf II. Prague was invaded by imperial Catholic forces in 1620, and utraquism in the city was wiped out: the statue of King George on the Týn Church was destroyed, its gold chalice replaced by a Virgin Mary. The city’s most well-known landmark, the Gothic-style St Vitus Cathedral, is a must see for visitors and has hosted the coronation of many Czech kings and queens in its long history. Climb its 90-metre-high tower for stunning views over the city. If you like this… For the other great Hapsburg capitals go to Vienna and Budapest. Meanwhile, to visit the home of Rudolf II’s great rival and fellow Hapsburg, Philip II, try Madrid, Spain. Simon Winder is the author of Danubia: A Personal History of Habsburg Europe (Picador, 2013)
In the latest instalment of our historical holidays series, in which experts imagine they're writing a travel guide in the past, Jenny Brown invites visitors to seek their fortune in Ballarat, known to many as 'the golden city'
This article was first published in the December 2013 issue of BBC History Magazine Ballarat, the world’s richest gold field, where a pick might yet strike a 2,000oz nugget, is seething with gold fever and political ferment. But miners beware. The Victorian government has hiked the price of mining licences to preposterous levels – whether you find payable gold or not... When to go Now! It’s the second phase of the Australian Gold Rush and a mainly young male population, fluxing between 25,000 and 50,000, is already on the field. What to take with you Load a wooden wheelbarrow with a tent, blankets, pick, shovel, axe, panning equipment, a cooking pot and gun. Stuff a big knife into your belt and take a slavering mongrel dog to deter thieves and midnight claim-jumpers. Costs and money If you can afford a hotel, the tariff is 50 shillings a week for the rudest accommodation and service, or 140 shillings per week for a halfway decent room. Every commodity is scarce and price gouging a given. If you’re intent on mining legally, you’ll need a licence, which can be an expensive outlay. Payment can be in gold dust. Sights and activities Be warned: Ballarat doesn’t boast the same sort of diversions that can be found in Sydney. Construction has begun on the stone Anglican Cathedral Church of Christ the King, designed in the English Gothic style, perhaps in the hope of bringing spiritual instruction to a town where drinking, whoring and gambling is rife. A seemingly never-ending stream of men – voicing a wild expectation “of gold in every dishful” in a diversity of languages, from French and Italian to Polish and Chinese – descend on the town on a daily basis, setting themselves up in tented communities. If the gold rush continues, redevelopment of the area will be necessary. Dangers and annoyances In a tightly packed field, a neighbour encroaching on your digging space is a common irritation. With no sanitation and countless flies, typhoid is a major health risk. The most immediate danger is falling into one of the thousands of open shafts in the dark nights which are never quiet because of drunken brawls and regular volleys of gunfire. The chief annoyance is the licence hunts by corrupt mounted troopers (some ex-convicts), who, unless they can be bribed, treat illegal miners with violent contempt, chaining them to a log until they pay up or push off. Discontent among diggers is becoming widespread. Earlier this year, Scottish gold digger James Scobie was murdered near the Eureka Hotel. When the hotel’s owner, James Bentley, was acquitted of the killing, the miners rioted and burned the building to the ground. Tensions are still running high and further unrest is likely. Sleeping and accommodation The first rush in 1851 saw 500 new arrivals joining a massive encampment beside a muddied creek on a daily basis. Today, you’ll find a military barracks, some permanent buildings (one in four being a hotel), banks, bakeries and bullion dealers. There are a few basic cottages and some bark huts. If you can find an unclaimed spot, however, for many uncomfortable months you’ll probably sleep under canvas amid the squalid jumble of mullock heaps. Eating and drinking Unless you befriend the Chinese, who grow vegetables, foods are basic and your diet will consist of salt beef, mutton, potatoes and damper (bread cooked over coals). The place is sloshing in grog. One sly grogger has 122 tents selling rum, brandy, wine, cider and locally brewed beers – some spiced with tobacco. Beware of a drink called ‘Blow My Skull Off’, which is reputedly laced with opium. Entertainment The legions of wifeless men have recourse to many brothels. There is gambling, including a game built around tossing nuggets. Fiddle, flute and banjo music is part of the nightly soundscape. The odd circus or opera company visits, and while there is already a primitive theatre, a flasher Victoria Theatre is due to open in just over a year with a performance by actress Lola Montez, whose erotic ‘Spider Dance’ has been described as outrageous. Shopping It will soon become apparent that the most reliable route to getting rich quick in Ballarat – without risking rheumatism – is to open a tent store selling food or equipment. Why? Because prices, especially for rare luxury goods, seem to double every six months. Getting around If you don’t make the eight- day trek from Melbourne on foot, you’ll pay £7 to bump along frightful tracks on an American stage coach. If you’re in a syndicate sharing costs and equipment, you could hire a labouring bullock dray at £100 per tonne – the annual wage of the clerk in your party who has absconded from his desk. Unless you find gold (which only one in every four miners will), you’ll soon be trudging back to Melbourne as a dirty, disillusioned destitute. Jenny Brown is a freelance journalist who lives in Melbourne, 65 miles east of Ballarat. Ballarat today Once the focal point of any ambitious man’s desires, the state of Victoria often suffers in comparison to other Australian big-hitters. Relative calm prevails today on sumptuous Lydiard Street, Ballarat’s most handsome hangover from the Victorian Gold Rush, but this is anything but a ghost town. The Goldfields region of Victoria – and Ballarat in particular – are immensely popular destinations for travellers exploring Australia. Sovereign Hill, a re-creation of an 1850s gold-mining township, gives the most vivid insight into what life was like for prospectors. But there are other reasons to linger longer. The city’s art gallery has a fabulous collection of early colonial paintings and nearby Lake Wendouree, created for the 1956 Olympics, is a lovely place for a stroll. Touring the Goldfields beyond will take visitors to Bendigo, another handsome city, and within range of the Grampians and Little Desert National Parks. If you like this… For another gold-mad part of the world, try Barkerville, British Columbia, Canada. Meanwhile, Sydney’s most historic neighbourhood, the Rocks, is the best place to explore another chapter of Australian history. Tom Hall is the travel editor of lonelyplanet.com
In the latest instalment of our historical holidays series, in which experts imagine they're writing a travel guide in the past, Marie Arana recommends a feverish South American metropolis that prides itself on its hospitality
This article was first published in the November 2013 issue of BBC History Magazine If the people of Caracas have a maxim, it’s ‘hospitality and trustworthiness’, and you’ll find them falling over themselves to make you feel at home in what is one of the jewels of Spanish South America. If only the same could be said of the local crocodiles… When to go The best time to visit is September to April, the dry season, when temperatures range from 70 to 82 degrees, and an inland breeze renders this feverish metropolis tolerable. It shouldn’t surprise you if friends try to discourage you from travelling to the Americas. The northern Homo Americanus is proving exceedingly pesky and is due to sign a severance with the British crown this year. But the southern variety is refreshingly tranquil. What to take with you You can rough it; you can bring party clothes. More adventurous visitors may wish to bring gear for a river or mountain crossing, while also allowing for the intermittent grand ball. Caracas is a region of extremes. You will be expected to roll with its glories and hazards. Fortunately, Venezuelans are prepared to lend you a freshly ironed shirt. Costs and money The official currency is the Spanish peso. For all its European vicissitudes, Spain has a firm grip on the South American continent. Because of the Laws of the Indies, a sobering Inquisition and a keen mastery of the Caribbean, King Charles III is firmly in charge here. The Mantuanos, the aristocratic locals – whose women wear veils, ride the shoulders of black slaves, and walk with a spirited ringing of bells from their skirts – have begun to object to the rich one per cent, who are largely Basques, and the grasping Canary Islanders. Tourists, on the other hand, are welcome. For that reason, you’ll find food, lodging, mules and guides surprisingly affordable. Dangers and annoyances There are an average of 11 earthquakes a day, some more discomfiting than others. Crocodiles abound, with a frightening habit of wandering into town. The heat can be oppressive, debilitating, bringing all manner of snakes and mosquitos into a visitor’s vicinity, but, even so, there are prodigious rewards... Sights and activities Let’s start with the exquisite beauty of the nights. The light of Venus is so bright that it might as well be the moon. The heavens are a splendour to behold. There are lightning bolts that roll down hills and light up the skies from October to November. Nearby is the fascinating Cave of Guachero, where thousands of nocturnal oilbirds fly out in thundering flocks, and draw nature watchers from miles around. When you lay anchor in the bay of La Guaira, you will need to cross the high range that separates the shore from the capital of Caracas. A good train of mules, which you can hire at the port, will take five hours to haul your trunks to the city. Take time to enjoy the winding road. The Camino de la Montaña is a relic unto itself, and has been travelled for hundreds of years by the natives. Caracas is laid out in classic Spanish style: five blocks by five, with each block accommodating four grand houses. The centre is a sprawling plaza, complete with cathedral, municipal buildings, and palaces to house the archbishop and the captain general of Venezuela – the eminences of this colony. Beyond that are the ramshackle huts that house the majority of the population. Aside from religious festivals and a new theatre built last year, there are few public activities in Caracas. Which is why, as a foreigner, you’ll find your company avidly sought. Indeed, traveller, you are the entertainment. Sleeping and accommodation Unless you’re a sailor bedding down in a flea-ridden public house, you’re likely to be invited to stay at a family villa. Venezuelans are warm, curious and value their H’s: “hospitalidad y la hombría de bien,” hospitality and trustworthiness. After four days in your company, they will take leave of you as if they’d known you all their lives. Eating and drinking Plantations here are famous for their cacao, coffee, tobacco and sugar cane. Cocoa is particularly thick and rich, and the coffee is always sweet. In the streets, you’ll find arepas, corn cakes slathered with butter or mashed avocado. The yuca root is boiled or made into bread. In homes of the Mantuanos, on the other hand, you’re likely to be served lechón asado (roasted fresh ham) and French wine. Getting around You can be carried on a litter of slaves; you can arrange for a ranch to bring round a horse or mule. But Caracas is small enough that you can walk everywhere. Beware of pickpockets posing as beggars, and pirates offering to ferry you home. Marie Arana is the author of Bolívar: American Liberator (Weidenfeld & Nicolson, 2013) Caracas today Sleepy? Orderly? This is not the Caracas of today. Venezuela’s rowdy capital has a population of over three million, who seem to be in a permanent whirl of staying up very late, getting up early and making the most of the cultural and entertainment riches on offer here. Indeed, if you’ve arrived here after a few weeks exploring the wilder side of Venezuela, the razzle-dazzle of the city’s shopping malls and towering skyscrapers can be something of a surprise. Big-hitting tourist attractions are relatively thin on the ground, but the National Pantheon of Venezuela is an imposing monument to the history of the country housed in a former church. On the outskirts of the city the hiking trails in the Parque Nacional El Ávila offer an escape from the crowds. Caracas remains a city with its issues. Safety is a concern in certain areas and you should seek local advice on which parts to avoid. Take care after dark, especially if you’ve enjoyed the roaring nightlife a little too much! If you like this… If you like less-heralded Latin American cities then try Santiago, Chile. For a different take on the Spanish colonial legacy, aim for Havana, Cuba. Tom Hall is editor of lonelyplanet.com. You can read more of Tom’s articles at the website
In our historical holidays series, in which experts imagine they're writing a travel guide in the past, Cassandra Clark introduces the charms of Heidelberg, seat of Prince Palatine Frederick V
This article was first published in the October 2013 issue of BBC History Magazine It’s a long journey through Europe to Heidelberg, in the heart of the Holy Roman Empire. It’s here that Princess Elizabeth, daughter of James I of England and VI of Scotland, holds court with her husband Prince Palatine Frederick V, and there is plenty to keep pleasure-loving visitors entertained... When to go There’s no bad time to visit. Heidelberg enjoys mild winters and warm, often rainy summers – be prepared for showers at any time – so spring and autumn are often considered the most congenial seasons. But the sooner you go, the better: the royal couple are rumoured to be preparing to decamp to Prague, where the crown of Bohemia awaits Frederick. What to take with you Your best garments if you’re staying up at the town’s castle, your brains if you’re staying down below at the university. Costs You’ll need plenty of bills to exchange for thaler, schillinge, pfennige or mark – prices have soared since the glamorous royal couple took up residence. Sights and Activities Heidelberg Castle, on the slopes of the crag known as Königstuhl (King’s Throne), is a must-see. Rebuilt in 1537 after a gunpowder explosion destroyed an earlier fortification, its famous Fountain Hall incorporates columns brought from Charlemagne’s imperial palace at Ingelheim. Frederick has added an English wing for his bride, with impressive views over the town. In one of the towers he has installed a theatre modelled on the recently destroyed Globe in London. Masques featuring the royals and plays by Shakespeare, performed by professional actors, are all the rage. For his wife’s 19th birthday Frederick ordered the construction of an ornate triumphal arch, completed in just one night, as the entrance to the Stückgarten (pleasure garden) he is creating for Elizabeth. The Hortus Palatinus, as it’s called, is already considered the eighth wonder of the world, and features terraces, exotic plants, fountains and grottoes. The court rides daily into the town – a sight not to be missed, with outrageous new fashions and glorious jewels on display. If you want to join in, town stables hire horses by the day. At the university you can rub shoulders with the lawyers and theologians who flock to these halls of learning. Founded in 1386, it was here in April 1518 that Martin Luther defended his 95 theses, provoking a religious debate that rages to this day. In the town itself you can while away the time with gambling, cockfighting or bear baiting. The main street stretches for almost a mile, a continuous ribbon of shops, taverns and churches. Don’t be tempted to light a candle in the latter, lest you find yourself atop the next public bonfire – Catholics are not popular in this staunchly Protestant region. Stretch your legs on a stroll across the wooden bridge and up the Heiligenberg mountain to the ruins of the 11th-century Monastery of St Michael. Dangers and annoyances Spanish troops are currently causing problems with shows of strength in the disputed lands outside the town, hoping to expand their Catholic territories, though most people believe their threats are unlikely to amount to anything. Otherwise, the only real dangers in Heidelberg are the usual urban perils of pickpockets, and the inconvenient chaos caused by nobles with unruly retinues thrusting along the streets. Sleeping and accommodation The town is blessed with plenty of inns, the most expensive at the top of the Hauptstraße (Main Street). Rates become progressively cheaper as you descend through the town. The impecunious might find themselves sleeping on the riverbank alongside threadbare students, whores and victims of the rooks, wolves and cardsharps of the gambling dens. Eating and drinking Heidelberg is heaven for meat-eaters. The daily hunt in the nearby woods supplies the town with ample meat – venison, wild boar, rabbit and hare. Every part of these beasts is used in Wursts (that’s sausages to you and me) in styles ranging from black blood sausage to the palest pork Bratwurst. Bread is mainly baked with rye, dark and chewy; wheat is used to make pretzels in the shape of love knots. This is a good wine region, and ale, brewed in every tavern, is drunk in copious amounts from tall clay pots or decorated pewter tankards. Getting around Electress Elizabeth generally rides through the town in her own Paris-built open chariot, but the average Johann either walks or rides a hired nag. Most ladies of wealth are conveyed in litters carried by a retinue of brawny servants. Litters will soon be as common in Heidelberg as they are on the streets of London, where they can be hailed by anybody with the cash to pay for them. Cassandra Clark’s fifth medieval crime novel, The Dragon of Handale, was published in May 2013 as an e-book